By Susanna Danner, director of protection
For the past seven years, I’ve been writing conservation
agreements for salmon in the Lemhi River, working from my faraway desk here in
Idaho’s capital city. I’ve fallen in love with the upper Salmon River watershed
– I’ve backpacked in the Lemhi Mountains, fished the Lemhi River, and even
visited Sacajawea’s birthplace. But being in the Lemhi at the moment when
Chinook salmon return home: it’s like seeing the green flash over the ocean.
The timing, location and conditions have to be just right. I’ve squinted at
ocean sunsets until my retinas look like a moth-eaten blanket, but I’ve only
seen the green flash twice.
Green Flash © Kal Schrelber via creative commons license
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Seeing wild Chinook salmon in Idaho is like that. They are
creatures out of myth, as elusive as sea serpents. In the seven years I’ve
worked for the Conservancy, I’ve never seen one. I read the data, so I believe
in them, and I work on their conservation as an act of hope. It’s worth it even
if I never see the living result of my efforts.
In late August, I had a meeting near the town of Salmon,
Idaho. On the way home, I asked my colleagues if we could detour to a nearby cattle
ranch where the Conservancy holds a conservation easement. We telephoned the rancher
for permission to visit his ranch to look for spawning Chinook. He graciously
gave us the OK, and we bumped down his dirt road to the Lemhi.I got out of the truck and heard splashes in the river. Big
splashes. My eyes filled with tears.
The author admiring the sight from thistle © Ron Troy/TNC
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These fish have swum 900 miles to get to this point. Odysseus couldn’t have done better. They’ve navigated the open ocean, avoided sea lion jaws and fishermen, plodded through slackwater, ascended seven dams, tolerated barges. They are tired, driven and massive: probably twenty pounds and 25 inches long. And they’ve made it past Scylla and Charybdis. There was no way I was going to hassle them at the end of this epic journey.
Luckily, I watched a lot of “G.I. Joe” growing up. I dropped to the ground and Army-crawled through a field of thistles to the water’s edge. I wanted to stay out of their line of sight, so they didn’t have to expend any precious energy in avoiding me.With my chin on the ground, I inched forward. Thistle prickles embedded themselves in my forearms and broke off. Big deal. I’ll dig them out later. This is important.I parted the riverside grasses with my hands to make a window. Two meters in front of me, an arched back rose out of the river, dazzling green speckled with black. A Chinook. The green flash!
I felt suffused with disbelief and joy. I could see their
battered white fins and tails, where their scales had been abraded making their
underwater nests (called “redds”.) A group of males sparred over the attention
of a female, and I could see the gravel under her looked like pale copper, from
where she had worn off the rocks’ surface algae digging her redd.
Chinook © Ron Troy/TNC
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Later, we walked sock-footed across the Lemhi, careful not
to cross near a redd or to kick up the fine sediment that could smother salmon
eggs downstream. At a vantage point above the river, we repeated our low crawl
to the edge. Peering down on the group of Chinook, the redd, the willow trees, the
glinting Lemhi River unspooling across the green river valley, I felt 1.)
sobby, and 2.) proud.
It’s the fish that deserve the accolades in this moment.
They are 900-mile sojourners through countless hardships. But the rancher
deserves thanks, too, for agreeing to protect the willows and the water flow
levels the Chinook need. The funding agencies made salmon conservation a
priority and provided the grant for the water and habitat protection. And The
Nature Conservancy entered into the perpetual partnership – the conservation easement
– that ensures the riverside habitat and water flow will be protected forever.
We – Conservancy members, the funding agencies, and the landowner – we’re like
the Chinook’s pit crew. They are the Green Flash, and we are here to give them
a safe watercourse to come home to.
For more information on this incredible journey watch the story of Lee Creek here.
For more information on this incredible journey watch the story of Lee Creek here.